A beautiful example of mid-century German jewelry design, this signed Grossé brooch dates to 1960 and features an exceptionally dimensional floral form rendered in luminous textured gold-tone metal.
The flower is constructed from layers of deeply sculpted, overlapping petals, each beautifully fluted and finished with fine linear texturing that captures and reflects the light. The curled and folded edges give the brooch wonderful movement and make the flower appear almost as though it has been formed from pleated metallic fabric.
At the center, six vivid turquoise-blue glass cabochons are individually prong-set in gold-tone metal. Their saturated color creates a beautiful contrast against the warm golden petals and provides the perfect focal point for the design.
The reverse is equally impressive, revealing the dimensional construction of the individual petals, original pin mechanism and the Grossé 1960 maker’s mark.
Measuring approximately 1 7/8 inches in diameter, this is a sophisticated and highly wearable piece of European mid-century jewelry with unmistakable presence.
Details
Designer: Grossé
Signed: Grossé 1960
Origin: Germany
Date: 1960
Style: Dimensional floral statement brooch
Materials: Gold-tone metal and turquoise-blue glass cabochons
Center Stones: Six prong-set turquoise-blue glass cabochons
Diameter: Approx. 1 7/8 inches
Closure: Traditional pin-back
Construction: Layered and sculpted dimensional metalwork
Condition
Excellent vintage condition.
All six turquoise-blue glass cabochons are present and securely set. The gold-tone finish remains exceptionally bright and lustrous, beautifully showcasing the intricate texture of the petals.
The pin mechanism is intact and functional. Minor surface wear consistent with age may be visible under close inspection and is part of the authentic character of this 1960 piece.
Please review all photographs, including the reverse, side profile and maker’s mark, as they form an important part of the condition description.
About Grossé
The history of Grossé begins with Henkel & Grosse, founded in Pforzheim, Germany, in 1907. The German jewelry manufacturer became particularly important in the world of European costume jewelry during the mid-20th century.
In 1955, Henkel & Grosse began manufacturing costume jewelry for the House of Christian Dior, establishing an association that would become an important part of the company’s history.
Alongside its Dior production, the company produced jewelry under the Grossé name, including sophisticated modernist, botanical and sculptural designs that are collected today as examples of quality German vintage jewelry.
Collector’s Note
The dated 1960 Grossé signature is an especially appealing feature of this brooch because it places the piece directly within the company’s important mid-century period.
Beyond the name, however, the craftsmanship speaks for itself. The elaborate dimensional petals, finely textured surfaces, curled edges and individually set turquoise-blue cabochons demonstrate the attention to construction that makes vintage Grossé jewelry so interesting to collectors.
Viewed from the side, the considerable depth of the flower becomes even more apparent; viewed from the reverse, its sculptural construction is beautifully revealed.
It is an excellent addition to a collection of Grossé, vintage German jewelry, Christian Dior-era European costume jewelry, Miriam Haskell, Hattie Carnegie, Trifari and other significant mid-century designers.
Styling
The combination of turquoise blue and luminous gold makes this brooch particularly beautiful against black, ivory, camel, navy or chocolate brown.
Wear it traditionally on the lapel of a tailored blazer or wool coat, or use it to embellish a silk scarf, structured handbag or evening jacket.
Its sculptural form also makes it an attractive display piece in a curated vintage jewelry collection.
